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Troubleshooting >>
Appliance Repair Troubleshooting DIY or Start Your
DIY WASHER REPAIR TROUBLESHOOTING
WASHER TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem:
Not Spinning.
1. Check the lid switch, raise and lower the lid, you should hear a clicking noise. Make sure the striker on the bottom of the lid is making contact with the actuator when the lid closes.
2. Check to make sure there is nothing stuck between the inner and outer tub
3. GE/Maytag check the belts, they may be broken or worn, and if you have two belts always replace both belts.
Problem:
Drains but not spinning. Clothes are still wet/heavy with water.
Sounds like it’s in neutral when raising and lowering the lid with the power on.
Put the timer in spin, turn the machine on. When you raise the lid if the motor stops but the tub has not moved at all check for broken couplers or a bad transmission. 99.8 percent of the time it will be a broken coupler.
You have a broken coupler or jammed pump. Broken coupler can be cause by overloading or out of balance. If the pump is stuck on the motor shaft or leaking it should be changed.
GE/Maytag check the belts, they may be worn, loose, or broken
Problem:
Won’t Drain.
Using a small bucket or pan, remove the washer drain hose from the stand pipe. Slowly lower the hose towards the pan. If the water flows slowly or not at all check the pump and discharge hoses for a restriction. If the water flows freely; you may have broken couplers or belts (GE/Maytag).
Problem:
No hot water or cold water.
The fill valve is plugged or solenoid is open. Sometimes everything will operate normal, but after a few loads you will only have hot or cold water. This condition means only one solenoid is conducting and the water valve should be changed.
It is uncommon but, the water temperature selector switch may also cause this problem.
Problem:
No water.
Always check the water supply first.
Problem:
Washer over fills.
This indicates a bad pressure switch. Change the switch.
Pressure switches hold up well. This problem does not happen often 2% of the time or less. This can be an intermittent problem.
Problem:
Runs but will not agitate.
1. Check the doggs by rotating the agitator by hand; clockwise and then counterclockwise.
2. One way will slip the other way you feel it engage.
3. If it slips in both directions the doggs (wig-wags) are worn and you need to change all 4 doggs, like in the video.
Problem:
Tub spins and agitates at the same time.
This indicates a bad transmission and is not worth repair due to the cost.
Problem:
Timer will not advance or only works in certain areas.
Change the timer. Make sure to give the model number of the unit.
Problem:
Broken knob on the timer.
Timer knobs break frequently.
1. Hold the lower portion of the shaft, with needle nose pliers and turn the upper portion counterclockwise. It will come off with ease and you can replace the knob.
Problem:
Knob on the shaft of the timer is slipping.
The timer may be good and the knob is worn, broken, cracked. Change the knob.
Problem:
Tub banging from side to side hitting the cabinet.
1. Check the dampening straps on the top of the tub. You will usually find one or more is broken. Replace any broken straps.
2. Uneven load, move the clothes around so they are more balanced.
3. Place you hand on the center of the agitator and move it to the center.
4. Also the transmission could have run out/wobble due to wear.
Problem:
Oil on the floor.
Bad seal in the transmission not worth repair, due to cost
Problem:
Tub is jammed.
Not worth the repair due to cost.
Problem:
Hole in the plastic tub.
This can be repaired with GE Silicone Glue. Let it dry 24 hours before using. You can also use what is called Slap-Stick from your appliance parts distributor. Silicone will work just as well if not even better. You should always return the next day to make sure its sealed good then reassemble the washer cabinet like in the video.
Problem:
Water on the floor.
1. Tub leans back too far or forward.
A. Check springs under the tub
B. You will usually find one has popped off.
C. On GE check 4 black rubber stabilizing straps at the top. Replace any broken straps. All 4 straps must on.
2. Check the fill hoses at the back of the washer. Always check the fill hoses for bubbles. I always buy stainless steel fill hose’s from the appliance parts distributor. I have been on many calls where the customer purchased hose’s from a hardware or home improvement store and the hose’s split within a few months causing water damage. This is something you want to avoid happening to you.
3. Large amount of water on the floor.
A. The tub could have been off center from an uneven load.
B. Grab top of agitator and move the tub back and forth; front and back to re-center the tub.
I. Try filling the tub ½ way or so, agitate, spin and fill again to be sure the tub stays centered after spinning.
4. I have found this many times: Water is backing up from the drain. If you check the washer out and do not find a leak. Take a small piece of paper towel and tape it on the pipe where the drain hose connects to the drain pipe.
Tell the customer if they have a leak again first check the paper towel. If the paper towel is wet the problem is in the drain not the washer. The customer should call a plumber.
5. Another reason for the washer to not drain properly is the drain hose may be hooked up wrong. Even if the customer has been using it that way for 25 years. The drain hose from the washer should go into the pipe so it drains with an opening left around the drain hose. See diagram.
Also make sure the drain tube will not pop out when discharging the water.
6. If the tub is full of water but will not empty: with the machine off, remove the drain hose from the drain pipe NOT FROM THE WASHER. Have a small bucket on the floor with you. Slowly lower the hose toward the bucket. If the water starts flowing heavily raise the hose up. Again water will stop. This will tell you nothing is stuck in the pump or drain hose.
If no water flows out or flows slowly with tub ½ full a sock or something is lodged in the pump or hose.
7. When you have a smaller amount of water leaking from under the machine, check the pump. If it is leaking or jammed, always change the pump.
8. Another source of water leaking from under the machine could be the hose under the washer connecting the washer pump to the washer drain hoses. Check to make sure they are not leaking. They sometimes have tiny holes in them and need to be replaced if leaking.
Foul odor coming from the washer may be due to a residual build up between the inner and outer tub. Set the water level to high hot, cold, or warm temperature; add 1 cup of white vinegar and let the machine run a full cycle. Repeat this one or two times a month until the odor dissipates.
I carry a very small pump non-submersible, which I purchased at Grangers and 2 washer fill hoses. You will find this very helpful and will make it very easy to drain any tub fast. It cost $40-50 and it’s the way to go.
(revised 3/2010)
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